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Climbing Pisco Mountain - Chopicalqui Climb
Altitude Pisco Mountain: 5.750 m.
Altitude Chopicalqui Mountain: 6.354 m.
Duration: 15 days.
Difficulty: PD +/ AD
Climbing Season: May to September |
Itinerary:
Day 1: Country of origin to Lima, stay at hotel.
Day 2: Lima to Huaraz, the capital of Ancash department (3,090m) by bus (8 hours), stay at hotel. |
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Day 3: After Breakfast taking care of last minute preparations we will drive 3 hours to Cebollapampa, the base camp for Pisco. This base camp elevation is about (3658mt.) and located in the Quebrada Llanganuco above the turquoise waters of two beautiful lakes. From the base camp we will take a short afternoon hike. |
| Day 4: This day we continue our process of acclimatization with a hike to Portachuelo de Llanganuco valley,(4767mt.) we pass above Cebollapampas with incredible views around we’re, Chopicalqui, Huascarán, Pisco, the Huandoy group and many other peaks of the incredible Cordillera Blanca, we hiking in between of nicer paramo. Don’t forget you the camera for taking a several pictures from all this massives |
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Day 5: Continue in our process of acclimatization this day we hike up to our intermediate high camp. With the support of mules for carrying our loads this will be a reasonable 5-6 hour hike up with only daypacks on our backs. |
| Day 6: This day the climbing will demand that we carry heavy packs in our backs, we Move to high camp where we will establish this first high camp 3-4 hours approximately between the camps. prepare for our summit climbing day. |
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Day 7: Summit day. After an early morning departure at 3:00 am. The top is guarded by a short vertical pitch we arrive at the summit of Nevado Pisco Oeste 19,300 feet (5884mt.) this summit offers unsurpassed views from the gigantic peaks, glaciers stretch for miles in all direction. will help us acclimatize, as well as provide us with an opportunity to polish our skills for our next climb. And then return to our intermediate camp for the night. |
Day 8: Early in the morning return to base camp. Where we rest and prepare for our ascent of Chopicalqui base Camp.
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Day 9: Full rest day in our base Camp at 12,500 feet (3810mt.) |
| Day 10: After breakfast we move to the Moraine Camp 1) located about 16,075 feet (4900mt) This day we will be a porter-assisted for our mountain gear put up to Camp. |
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Day 11: After moving through the moraine above camp1 we rope and climb on the glacier to our high camp 2) about 17,056 feet (5200mt) Our guide mike this move, the climbers well be like to mike this is good or resting in the moraine camp 1) |
| Day 12: This day we move at the high camp with all our mountain gear. An early dinner then its time to rest for the early wake up. |
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Day 13: Summit day. Early wake up, Relatively straightforward glacier travel leads to the saddle between Chopicalqui and the fascinating east ridge of Huascaran Sur. From the saddle glacier slopes interspersed with short steep sections (up to 60 degrees) lead to the wildly corniced and fluted summit at 20,842feet (6354mt). This is an grandiose day! Return to the Moraine Camp. (There one days reserved for the summit climb if we have bad weather.) |
Day 14: This day return to Huaraz, for some much needed rest and relaxation. We will be have a celebration and traditional Peruvian dinner. If you like And have a good condition after the high climb we go for a salsa dancing.
Day 15: Rest day in Huaraz. |
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EXPEDITION COSTS INCLUDE:
- 2 nights lodging in Lima (double bed, breakfast included)
- When you arrive to huaraz we pick up you to the hotel by taxi.
- 3 nights lodging in Huaraz (double bed, breakfast included)
- Bus transportation Lima - Huaraz and private local transportation Huaraz - Portachuelo Llanganuco - Huaraz.
- Mountain guide, porters and cook.
- Donkeys to carry the common gear (tents, food and fuel) as well as personal gear (up to 20 kg per person)
- Kitchen gear and cooking facilities at base camp (including dining tent, chairs, cooking tent).
- Food for the whole duration of the climb (breakfast, lunch and dinner) is included.
* The meals include: omelets, sups, fresh fruits, ahuacate, spaghettis meats, rice all them rich in carbohydrates, excellent to recover all the energy you lose during the trek and climbing, also include drinks as: tea, coffee, milk breads, popcorn and coco tea good for altitude sickness.
- Climbing gear: rope, plastic boots, harness, ice axes
- Camping gear: 3 season tent
- First aid kit
- Check-up for oxygen to assess acclimatization level of each client.
- Entry to National Park Huascaran .
Not included:
- Food costs outside the climb ( Lima and Huaraz)
- Flight from country of origin to Lima
- Extra days of lodging due to delays of the trip
- Personal trekking and climbing gear (sleeping bag, sleeping mattress etc..)
- Personal expenses .
- The prices can change according to the date and number of persons, please catch up us on the web for more information.
- Recommended gear:
Lightweight walking shoes/sandals/socks/pants/short pants/T-shirts (long sleeve and short sleeve)/sunglasses/sunscreen/plastic bags/warm sleeping bag /light weight trekking boots/wool socks/light weight treeking pants/waterproof pants and jacket/fleece/Goretex/hat/mits or warm gloves/thermal liners/camera/bandana or hat against sun/headlamp with extra batteries.
- Safety Individual gear:
Glacier glasses 100% UV with rigid case (2 pair recommended)/ goggles/ sunscreen with maximum protection/lipbalm/4 season sleeping bag/ sleeping pad or thermarest/hat/thermal underwear/fleece jacket/fleece pants/down jacket/Goretex jacket or similar material/2 pairs of gloves or mittens/ pair of thermal glove liners/2 pairs of thermal sock liners/plastic boots/gaiters
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